Vegetable coloring: beautiful natural hair
Vegetable coloring: beautiful natural hair
What is a plant color and how does it differ from a chemical color? Decrypting a technique that, more than a fashion effect, attracts more and more women.
Indigo, amla, paprika … These plants, roots or bark, crushed to obtain a fine powder, have the amazing power to color hair. Produced from organic farming, these pure plants, without oxidants or ammonia, are mixed with hot water to form a paste. Unlike the oxidation coloration that penetrates the hair and modifies it, the plant pigments naturally envelop the fiber and sheathe it.
"The vegetal coloring acts as a care: it is the molecule of henna – the lawsone – which allows to fix the other pigments", explains Cécile Lainé, hairdresser specializing in vegetal coloration and manager of the show L'Atelier des Elfes. Charley Assoun, hairdresser and founder of Biocoiff shows, says: "Semi-vegetal does not exist." As soon as chemistry comes in, it is no longer natural: the only possible natural coloration is vegetal, namely powders Of plants only. "
And users, what do they think? "When clients see the quality of their hair, they do not return to the chemical after," assures Charley Assoun. Audrey noticed after many chemical colorings that she had lost 50% of her hair mass: "Many of my hair fell, they were so dry that the spikes were forked." In passing to the plant, she immediately noted an improvement: "The result was spectacular. Today my hair breathe health, they are beautiful and shiny." Same observation in Alexia, who observed from the first application "hair less dull".
Endocrine disrupters in some chemicals
But what is so harmful in chemical staining? "Most use molecules that are endocrine disruptors or have carcinogenic effects, such as PPD, para-phenylenediamine (named" Allergen of the Year "in 2006 by the American Contact Dermatitis Society). Ammonia and is responsible for bladder cancer, which is much more important for hairdressers, "explains Anne-Marie Gabelica, biochemist and founder of the organic cosmetic brand oOlution.
According to the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) and the cancer agency of the World Health Organization (WHO), hairdressers may indeed be at increased risk of cancer due to dyes and other products Chemicals they use. The site economie.gouv specifies that the PPD is already prohibited in cosmetic products other than hair dyes (where its concentration is limited to 6%).
Expert Anne-Marie Gabelica also points to resorcinol, "an endocrine disruptor that will act on the thyroid, which controls all metabolism. It is a neurotoxic product," she denounced. Resorcinol is described in a WHO study as "irritant and sensitizing to the skin, eyes and respiratory tract". Amandine Béroudiaux, a naturopath at Aroma-zone, also confirms that "many American and Swedish studies are aimed at certain molecules contained in chemical colorations, which would be involved in the appearance of cancers and other skin problems, not to mention the damage On the hair fiber ".
The Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (CSSC) reports that toluene 2,5 diamine sulfate and 1-naphthol, contained in certain chemical colorations, are "highly sensitizing" and "highly irritating" molecules for the skin, eyes And the lungs. Studies on these many ingredients found to be toxic are also included on the Truth on Cosmetics website.
Moreover, the consequences on the environment are far from being harmless. "We are in a destructive economy that goes against the respect of biodiversity.Fish in the defluents will change sex in contact with this polluted city water, rich in endocrine disrupting molecules," says Anne-Marie Gabelica, Which cites Aquatic Toxicology, a US study conducted in nine river basins in the United States to prove sex change in a variety of fish (boom). In addition, PPD (para-phenylenediamine or diaminobenzene) has been recognized as "very toxic to aquatic organisms" by the International Program on Chemical Safety.
Vegetable coloring at home
Since vegetable colorings prove to be more expensive in the living room than chemical colorings, one understands that the choice is reflected. Audrey testified: "After hours spent at the site of Aroma-zone, I decided to buy henna (Rajasthan) and coloring powders of the type Amla, Shikakai, Sidr … It costs me only 5 The package, three uses, or even more if I only do my roots. "
If you can not afford a color in the salon (between 70 and 120 euros), you can buy at Naturalia, Biocoop or on reliable sites such as Aroma-zone (between 5 and 12 euros). However, always check the provenance of your henna. Anne-Marie Gabelica warns: "So-called natural brands put PPD in, which can cause allergies." In 2009, the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products (ANSM) published a note warning against black ephemeral tattoos based on henna and PPD. "Some brands say they are organic but on the back of the boxes, there are plenty of toxic products, people are deceived, I am outraged to see these colors in organic shops."
In store, only the Logona brand offers certified colors. If you are not sure of the composition, you can check the list of ingredients on laveritesurcosmetiques.com, a veritable gold mine that decrypts the components.
On the maintenance side, forget the conventional products, incompatible with vegetable coloring. Prefer organic products whose surfactants (washing agents) are softer. "By switching to vegetal, a shampoo is enough because the hair is healthy again," says Cécile Lainé. Alexia confirms that she has adopted a minimalist routine: "I only wash the scalp once a week, with a very diluted soft and organic shampoo, then I rinse the hair with cider vinegar."
The limits of vegetable staining
"We can make all the shades except fading," admits Charley Assoun. If you are brunette and want to become blonde, there is no miracle, only chemicals can lighten. On the other hand, on a base of white hair, the blond is quite possible with vegetal. On brown hair, white hair can be covered 100%, but the coloring must however be done in two steps for total coverage.
If the chemical colors are relatively simple to make at home, the natural ones also require more attention. "Even if we decide to do it ourselves, we need the opinion of a professional. It is a job, we must pay attention to the times of pose and nuances that we believe we master," warns Cécile Lainé . Myriam is part of the cautious: "To do it in the living room is a pleasure, I do not want to hang in my bathroom and put it everywhere." On the other hand, Audrey will continue to dye her hair herself: "Being at home, I can continue to do my work. My first tests were not necessarily conclusive about color and disgorgement, but I Learned little by little of the tricks, like spraying water with baking soda to open the scales or washing the hair with Sidr powder to maintain color. On my YouTube channel, I realized A complete tutorial to show how I proceed. "